Support structure



Dec. 6, 1960 CLOVER 2,963,023

SUPPORT STRUCTURE Filed April 4, 1960 v 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Dec. 6, 1960 H. CLOVER 2,963,023

SUPPORT STRUCTURE Filed April 4, 1960 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Unite States Patetit'o ice 2,963,023 SUPPORT STRUCTURE Henrietta Clover, 94 -40 QueensBlvtL, New York, 74, NY.

Filed Apr. 4; 1960; S'er; 141a lea-4- 5 Claims. Cl.- 128-483 This invention relates to garment structures and more specifically to foundation garments such as brassieres';

It is one of the objects of the present invention toprovide means facilitating the support'of a persons bustin a highly efiicient andj non-pressure exerting fashion, so that the person Wearing a brassiere of the aforesaid type will experience great comfort without any deleterious effects to the body.

It is another object of the-present invention to provide" means affording a very economical and highly eflicient brassiere structure resulting in a substantially even distribution of the propping forces in particular applied to the bust therebelow and via predetermined parts ofthe brassiere srtucture.

Yet'another object of 'the present-inventionis to pro vide means conducive to a smooth, readily applicable and regulatable brassiere structure which is devoid of any stiffening means, such asbo'nes, gwire, plastic inserts ture for a brassiere forwhichcupmo rubber bands or the like may beemployed, and which, onthe one hand, con forms tothe configuration of the individual bust of the wearer and, on the other hand,.sustains the bust in a de'- sired lifted position due to the adjustable parts of the brassiere, which bring abouta "so-calledscissor'effect acting, in particular, below the'bust.

A further object ofthe present'inventionisto provide means contributing to a brassiere structure whichis easy to wear, is prevented fr'omriding up from below the bust, keeps'the bust inshape,'provides good breast cup" separation even for a heavier bust, and' efiectuat'es extra support anda lifting elfect as a'resultant" of opposed propping actions emanating fr'o'r'nio'wer parts of each bust cup which are oriented in opposite 'dire'ctio'nsij These and other objects of the present invention will be come further apparent from the followin'g'detaileddescrip tion, reference being made to the accompanying drawings; showing preferred embodiments'of the invention.

In the drawingst Fig. 1 is a perspective front view of a'brassiere pu suant to the inventionQa flap thereof being shown innonapplied position. i k I Fig. 2 is a fragmentary elevation view of the'brassiere as seen toward the inside 'of the right-hand cup of the brassiere 'of Fig. 1. t I l Fig.3 is a side elevation view of the brassiere'drawn on a reduced scale, parts being broken away. K

Fig. '4 is a fragmentary front eievauaaview of the bust separatiiig pa'fts of the 'brassi'erel 2,963,023 Patented Dec. 6, 1960 Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the brassiere of Fig. 1, seen toward the interior thereof.

Fig. 6 shows pattern parts employable in the manufacture of the brassiere.

Fig. 7 shows the pattern parts of Fig. 6 in the state of being partly assembled. v

Referring now more particularly to the drawings, there has been disclosed in Fig. 1 a brassiere 10 having the breast cups 11, 12 and the median separating part13 at which the two cups are joined together, as by stitchings 14 and by a crosspiece 15. Crosspiece 15 has a central stitch 16 dividing crosspiece 15 into channel-shaped parts 15a and 15b. a

As can be seen from Fig. 2; each cup consists of a larger lower cup forming portion 17 and an upper shorter cup forming portion 18, whereby the larger portion 17,

extends froir'rbelow the bust somewhat rearwardly thereof and toward the median part of the bust, thereby affording a natural lift to the bust whenthe aforesaid portions 17,: 18 .of each cup are sewn together along respective seams 19..

Each cup is further defined by a shirred end piece 20 of material to which is joined coextensively with said piece of material an expandable band forming a strip layer '21, such as sold on the market under the trademark Helanca. This band or strip is' devoid of any rubber and has due, to' its thread construction the tendency to contract and when applied to the body to follow the contour and expand sufficiently so as to readily conform to the wearers bust. v g Thus, the aforesaid piece of material together with the expandable band carried thereon comes to lie below the bust line without cutting into the skin. To this end, the aforesaid stretchable band is provided with a velveted layer 21a facing the skin of a'wearcrs body. The expandable band 21 as shown in Fig. 2, defines the line of separation of the'bust, extends below the bust at 21b and is further prolonged to reach above the bust at least to a location at 22a, at which the strap 22 of the brassiere is attached to the upper part of the respective cup. I

As .seen in Fig. 2, the band 21 when in fully'expanded position may also reach beyond the attachment of strap 22, if -desired. Y

19a there is disposed a flap-shaped substantially unstretchable piece of material 25 which terminates at seam 1% located a predetermined distance from the center 26 of the cup 12 near seam 19. Flap 25 is further affixed at 19c and along seam 19d and has a lower terminal binding 24'. Operatively connectedto binding 24 is. a tie ribbon 27which extends through. channel-shaped part 15b of crosspiece 15,-as more clearly seen in Fig. 1..

When flap 25 is thus swing to overlie the shirred and expandable band 21 it imparts to the respective cup a furtherlift or prop and prevents exposure of the expanded shirred terminal piece of material 20 with the underlying band 21, as can be more clearly visualized action in the direction of arrow B. Thus propping forces for the bust become effective at the lowermost part of the bust in a scissor-like fashion as one action is oriented injthe direction of arrow A whereas the opposite action -is directed in accordance with arrow B.

Fig. 3 shows cup 12 inside elevationview With flap 25in applied position, whereby the band part..21c has been sufficiently expanded to further contribute to alifting action on the bustand to further effectively contribute to t he line o' f separation ,between the breast parts.

As can be further seen from Fig. 3, seam 19d extends in the embodiment shown across the entire side or terminal edge of the cup 12. From said side edge 19d extends rearwardly a further piece of material 28 terminating in a V-shaped end 29 for a purpose later described. I The rear part of the brassiere structure consists of a stretchable preferably rubberized material 30 to which is attached a non-stretchable endpiece 31 provided with hooks and eyes 32, 33, 34 for suitably adjusting the brassiere to a persons body.

To the stretchable rear part 30is attached, as at 22b, strap 22, whose forward end engages the respective cup 12, as more clearly seen in Fig. 5.

It is further to be noted that the seam 19 by which the V-shaped component 18 is attached to the respective lower component 17 runs from approximately the location of attachment 22a downwardly toward apex 26 of the cup and then sidewardly along seam 19a to terminate approximately midway at 19e of side part 28 of the brassiere.

Ascan be further seen from Fig. 1, the sideward boundary of the cup 12 is defined by seam 19d. Flap 25 is fixed between locations 190 and 19e along the aforesaid seam 19a and is then free for draping purposes at its end 25a to which is attached a tie band 27 for being threaded through one of the channel-shaped parts 15a or 15b of the crosspiece 15. Thereafter the tie means 27 of both opposite flaps 25 may be interconnected as at 27a (Fig. 5).

Figs. 6 and 7 show the V-shaped component 18, the lower component 17 and flap 25 in pattern form and connected to each other, respectively, along seams 19, 19a, and 19d.

From the aforesaid disclosure it becomes further apparent that the lower cup component 17 is gathered at least along the extent from the fixation location at 22a of strap 22 beyond the inner edge portions at 13 of the circumferential edge 20 as far as the location 19c, as clearly depicted in Figs. 1 and 5. The expandable band or strip 21 is substantially coextensive with said shirred circumferential edge of the cup. The expandable strip or band 21 may, however, extend further beyond location 22a toward the side part 28 of the brassiere and in like manner this expandable band may still further extend beyond the location 19c to the full extent of the side part 28 and, if desired, to the rear part 30 up to end piece 31.

It is further noteworthy that side part 28 terminates in a pointed end 29 in order to allow for sutficient stretch on the top and on the bottom along 21a of the side parts 28 while the median part terminating in pointed end 29 is substantially devoid of any streachability.

Considerable advantages have been observed and are derived from this particular construction of the brassiere. By avoiding any stiffening means such as wire, bones, etc., the brassiere is easily wearable and launderable, affords an excellent feel and comfort for the wearer, but due to its gathered and expandable circumferential edge together with the expandable band 21 hereinabove set forth, sufficient elasticity is created to bring about easier breathing, to prevent riding up of the cups of the brassiere and cutting into the skin of the wearer.

Due to the specific construction of a combination of drapable flaps with the expandable circumferential edge defining the breast cups, and in conjunction with the particular arrangement of shoulder straps a definite separation even of closely juxtaposed breasts is afforded. The breasts cannot move away or out of the cups and the readily expandable and contractable circumferential edge off the cups keeps the bust in shape without any binding e ect.

In combination with the expandable circumferential edge of each cup which is forced in the direction toward the rear of the brassiere when in applied condition (see arrow B), there is created due to the provision of flaps 25 to be tied at the location of interconnection of the cups at crosspiece 15 a further molding and uplift action (according to arrow A) which counteracts somewhat the stretching action of the circumferential edge of the cups in a crosswise or scissor-like fashion so that extra support and uplift from the lower part of the breast is attained and to an extent as may be adjusted by manipulation of tie means 27.

The brassiere has been found to be suitable for heavier as well as for smaller breast formations and the aforesaid flaps impart an esthetic and pleasing appearance to the brassiers structure as the flaps in applied positions on the cups conceal the lower shirred or gathered parts of the circumferential edge and thus fulfill a dual purpose of lifting action and concealment.

The brassiere cups may be made from cotton, lace and similar materials and rubber rear part 30 may be readily replaced or interchanged, as desirable, without destroying the main and underlying features of the invention as hereinabove outlined.

In certain cases it might be further desirable to use a padding of any construction to be placed between the outer surface of the breast cups and the inner surfaces of the flaps in order to individually shape the bust of the wearer.

It is preferred to use for the side parts and cups sub stantially unstretchable material such as lace material either internally lined or not. It is further to be noted that the flaps 25 leave completely free the nipples of the breast along seams 19b, as clearly depicted in Fig. 1.

The new brassiere according to the invention may be rolled up for packing or storing purposes. Due to the shoulder strap arrangement, the cups in wear position open up from their contracted position, embrace the breast parts, maintain same in completely separated condition and contribute to uplift thereof, which latter action is still further regulatingly and adjustably enhanced by the particular flaps to be anchored at the line of breast separation (crosspiece 15).

It can thus be seen that there has been provided ac cording to the invention a support of the character described having a pair of breast cups interconnected at adjacent inner portions of their circumferential edges and wherein each cup comprises a lower component and an upper component, respectively, said lower component ex tending in an arc formation from the bottom of the breast toward the rearward part of said cup as well as toward the part along the inner circumferential edge and therebeyond to overlie the upper breast section, said upper component being substantially V-shaped and being located on top of the breast and joined to said lower component along a substantially V-shaped seam with the apex thereof located adjacent the breast nipple to thereby bias the lower component, the circumferential edge of the cup being gathered and forming the outer boundary of said lower component, an expandable shirred band substantially coextensive with and completely attached to the inner face of said gathered circumferential edge, thus uplifting by means of said cup the breast from below the bust, a fiap adapted to partly overlie said cup, said flap being attached at one end to a predetermined location of said circumferential edge of said lower component and extending from said location toward a further location at which the cups are interconnected with each other, so that the gathered circumferential edge of said lower component of said cup may be substantially covered by said flap in applied position of said cup, tie means fixed to an opposite end of said flap, and means facilitating connection of said tie means to said further location thereby to additionally uplift the breast.

Various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention and it is intended that such obvious changes and modifications be embraced by the annexed claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

aoeaoaa -1. A support having a pair of breast cups interconnected at adjacent inner portions of their circumferential edges; each cup comprising a lower component and an upper component, respectively, said lower component being of arc formation, said upper component being substantially V-shaped and being joined to said lower component along a substantially V-shaped seam including an apex to thereby bias the lower component and shape each breast cup, the circumferential edge of the cup forming the outer boundary of said lower component, an expandable shirred band substantially coextensive with and completely attached to the inner face of said circumferential edge, .a flap adapted to partly overlie said cup, said flap being attached at one end to a predetermined location of said circumferential edge of said lower component and being further stitched to and along a portion of said V-shaped seam, said flap stitching terminating short of said apex, the remainder of said flap extending from said predetermined location unattached toward a further location at which the cups are interconnected with each other, so that the circumferential edge of said lower component of said cup may be substantially covered by said flap in applied position of said cup, tie means fixed to an opposite end of said flap, and means facilitating connection of said tie means to said further location.

2. A brassiere garment having a pair of breast cups with circumferential edges and having inner and outer portions interconnected at their adjacent inner portions, side parts connected to said outer portions and end parts attached to said side parts; each cup comprising a lower fabric component and an upper V-shaped fabric component, respectively, said lower component being arc-shaped and extending from the respective side part to the inner portion of the respective circumferential edge and there beyond in upward direction, a substantially V-shaped seam with an apex connecting said upper component to said lower component, to thereby bias the lower component, the circumferential edge of each cup being gathered and forming at least a part of the outer boundary of said lower component, an expandable shirred band substantially coextensive with and completely attached to the inner face of said gathered circumferential edge of said lower component, a flap overlying part of said cup, said flap being attached at one end to a predetermined location of said lower component and reaching therefrom toward the inner portion of the cup, so that the gathered circumferential edge of said lower component of said cup may be substantially covered by said flap in applied position of said cup, tie means fixed to an opposite end of said flap, and means facilitating connection of said tie means to said inner portion.

3. In a brassiere garment including a pair of breast cups equipped with shoulder straps at predetermined locations of said cups, each cup having a circumferential edge with an inner and with an outer edge portion, said breast cups being permanently interconnected at their adjacent inner edge portions, side parts extending from said outer circumferential edge portions, end parts attached to said side parts; each cup comprising a lower component, an upper V-shaped component, said lower component being secured to the respective side part and extending therefrom to the inner portion of the respective circumferential edge therealong and reaching said predetermined location at which one of the shoulder straps is aflixed to said cup, a substantially V-shaped seam having an apex and connecting said upper component to said lower component and terminating at the respective side part above said lower component, to thereby bias the lower component, the circumferential edge of the cup being gathered and forming at least a part of the outer boundary of said lower component, an expandable, shirred band of nonrubberized material substantially coextensive with and attached to and along the inner face of said gathered circumferential edge of said lower component, a flap adapted to partly overlie said lower component of said cup and attached at one end to the outer portion of said circumferential edge of said lower component at the respective side part and further to a portion of said V-shaped seam adjacent said respective side part, the remainder of said flap being unattached and extending toward said inner portion of the circumferential edge of said cup in applied position, so that the outer face of the circumferential edge of said lower component of said cup is at least partly concealed by said flap in said applied position, tie means fixed to an opposite and free end of said flap, and means located at said inner portion of the circumferential edge of said cup for retaining said tie means thereat.

4. In a garment according to claim 3, said expandable band being provided with a velveted surface facing the skin of the wearer.

5. In a garment according to claim 3, said retaining means being a cross-piece provided with channel means and located at the point of interconnection of said cups, said tie means being adapted to be threaded through a respective channel means.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS FOREIGN PATENTS France Mar. 22, 1950 

